Fishing Sea

Fluorocarbon Line

Answers

How do you feel about fluorocarbon line?
Kureha Riverge R18 Fluoro Limited

I know a lot of people that think it's garbage. I used to think that , and I hadn't even tried it! I have since tried it, and boy what a 360 I have done! It really has it's place and time, if you ask me. Berkley Trilene 100% fluoro is the best I've used.


I like Triple Fish fluorcarbon, I have not used Berkley 100 % fluorocarbon but hate Vanish! vicious line makes a nice fluorcarbon.

Jon Thelen Tip: Fluorocarbon Line


Professional Walleye Angler Jon Thelen gives a fishing tip on the use of Fluorocarbon fishing line.

Whats the difference between Monofilament Line and Fluorocarbon Line?
Macro shot comparing fishing lines

si one better than the other


ADVANTAGES of Fluorocarbon:

-- One of the primary advantages of fluorocarbon is its near invisibility when it is submerged under water. Fluorocarbon line comes the closest to the light refractive index of water so it is virtually invisible when submerged. This fact alone makes this line very useful in situations that have a clear water environment. A lot of anglers are now using less-visible 16 lb. fluorocarbon for applications where they may have used more-visible 12-14 pound mono previously. Anglers are able to gain extra strength in their fluorocarbon lines due to the less visibility of fluorocarbon in the water.
-- Fluorocarbon's chemical composition and extrusion methods create an extremely strong and durable line. Fluorocarbon does not absorb water like most nylon monofilaments, so it maintains its strength better than nylon monofilaments, which loses strength when exposed to water or humidity. Fluorocarbon is also unaffected by the sun’s ultraviolet rays causing fluorocarbon lines to last significantly longer than nylon monofilaments as well. I have personally noticed that fluorocarbon line can last as long as four times the life of nylon monofilaments, making it an excellent choice for anglers looking for a good value in fishing lines.
--Yet another advantage of this space age line is that fluorocarbon has less stretch than typical nylon or copolymer monofilaments. Your hook sets are always strong and positive and this is a huge plus when fishing deep water finesse baits where line stretch is detrimental to a good hook set. The stretchiness characteristic of fluorocarbon line is more comparable to that of braided lines than nylon monofilaments, but without the thread look of braided lines that are easily seen in clear water. When you are flipping and pitching your subtle bites will go from a barely detectable tap tap while using nylon monofilaments, to bites feeling like a bolt of lighting up the spine of your rod when using fluorocarbon. The bites are three times more noticeable in my hands while using fluorocarbon.
I have to tell a story as it pertains to the sensitivity of fluorocarbon lines. While giving a tank seminar on jerkbaits at the Atlanta Boat Show a few weeks ago, I had one rod spooled with 10lb nylon monofilament and another with 10 lb fluorocarbon. I was using two rods for the sole purpose of saving time tying on another bait during the middle of a seminar. In this particular tank the fish were starving and feeding heavily on almost anything you threw. I was describing the different actions between a pointer 78 and a flashminnow 95MR in the tank and while fishing the pointer 78 on monofilament I can clearly see the fish lightly hitting the bait and quickly spitting it out because the hard jerkbait didn’t feel real to the fish. I could just barely, if at all, feel those fish hit that pointer 78. But when I threw the flashminnow 95MR on the fluorocarbon the fish just picked at the flashminnow just like they did the pointer 78 and the bites were extremely distinguishable compared to those hits on pointer 78 using nylon monofilament. I taught myself a very valuable lesson that day and it made me wonder how many fish have pocket picked my jerkbaits in the past while I was using nylon monofilament and I didn’t even know it. Even though the bites are subtle on inactive fish I could have at the very least has the opportunity to swing on some of those pocket picking fish in hopes to sticking them and getting them into the boat. But now that I use fluorocarbon I will get that opportunity and I will never forget that test and I hope it will give you the reader something to think about as well.
Another advantage of fluorocarbon over a braided line is that fluorocarbon line sinks at much faster rates than nylon line or even much less dense braided lines, which will float. Because of the chemistry of the material and the dense packing of the crystal structures in the polymer chains, fluropolymers are about 1.7 times as dense as nylon, which gives them a much faster sink rate. The fact that fluorocarbon sinks makes it a better choice for baits that dive or sink like crankbaits and deep jig fishing, and it can even help get your deep diving Lucky Craft jerkbaits like the Staysee 90 get a little deeper than a braided line normally would get you.
It is the surface tension of water combined with the lower density that can keep nylon monofilament from sinking under the water’s surface. It often takes the weight of a lure to let the nylon monofilament break the surface tension and sink slowly once it gets wet. Often the dry portion of the nylon monofilament that is unaffected by the weight of the lure, stays on the surface of the water. Most anglers have seen this when fishing with artificial lures. Once the lure hits the bottom, you will notice some of your line still on the surface of the water and any slack in the nylon line will float or arch creating a bow in your line. It is most notable especially when fishing at deeper depths. These bows and arches will not happen with fluorocarbon line. Fluoropolymers, even though they are hydrophobic or water hating, will easily break the surface tension and sink at much faster rates than nylon monofilaments, even without the help of the weight of any artificial lure. This concept leads to a direct connection to your lure, which is a very important aspect when fishing deep water with any lure that is worked below the surface of the water. It is common knowledge that big bows in your line reduce your ability to detect subtle strikes, especially in deep water, and by using fluorocarbon line you have just eliminated those effects.
-The hard finish of fluorocarbon line also provides extreme abrasion resistance over nylon monofilaments. In fact, fluorocarbon has been offered for years as a leader material because of this property, but recent improvements in the processing have enabled makers to manufacture it with enough flexibility to be used solely as fishing line for bass.
Now that’s the long list of advantages here is the short list of disadvantages, but they are very minor compared to the long list of advantages.

DISADVANTAGES of Fluorocarbon

One caution with fluorocarbon lines is that you need to be very careful when tying your knots to lures. Knot tying with fluorocarbon is VERY VERY critical to prevent break-offs. A lot of anglers discount the importance of knot tying with fluorocarbon lines and complain of line breakages. I can attest that poor knot tying skills are the most common reasons why anglers break off on fluorocarbon. No matter how long you have being tying knots with fishing line there is always room for improvement.
Here are the steps I take in getting a good strong knot with fluorocarbon. I prefer either the Berkley braid knot or the palomar knot when tying fluorocarbon to lures or hooks. The absolute key to getting a good knot with fluorocarbon is to make sure that your knot is NEAT and not sloppy. Meaning you can't have a strand of fluorocarbon overlapping where it shouldn't be overlapping and you must have a close to perfect knot as possible. Having said that, fluorocarbon lines are fairly stiff and slippery materials, and if you kink or damage the line while making the knot, then the line will be weakened dramatically similar to a single strand wire, once you kink the wire the wire has been weakened. So very careful, slow and systematic knot making, lubrication will help you to form a better knot and offer a stronger bind between your line and your lure. Once you wrap your knot and you are ready to cinch your knot you have GOT to slobber up the knot AND the eyelet of the hook very thoroughly!! Once you wet the knot, SLOWLY SLOWLY SLOWLY, cinch the knot and put a lot of emphasis that your knot stays straight and neat during the cinching process. I take 10 seconds to cinch the knot and I keep checking it to make sure my knot is clean as I am cinching it downward towards the lure. What I do is cinch the knot a 1/4 of an inch and stop and slobber it up and keep repeating the process till your knot is cinched all the way down, but remember to be sure that your knot is PRETTY. If you did everything correctly test your knot by pulling on it. With 8lb fluorocarbon line take the lure in one hand, line in the other with the knot being in between your two hands give it a good pull to see if your knot is sufficient and do this test as often as possible and retie as necessary. I do find myself retying more often on the smaller diameters (8lb test or smaller) than I do on the larger diameter lines. Yes, it's a little bit of a pain to go through some of the rituals that I go through in tying knots with fluorocarbon, but the key to fluorocarbon is some good basic and systematic knot tying skills. By developing good basic knot skills it allows you to concentrate on what is important, finding and catching more fish with the advantages that fluorocarbon provides you. Personally, I just can't imagine fishing with nylon monofilaments again after seeing the advantages of fluorocarbon lines with my own two eyes.
Fluorocarbon Line As for knots, I personally like the braid knot shown below. My primary reason for liking that knot is it is the easiest knot to tie and it is the easiest knot to get a pretty knot every time, compared to the palomar knot, with minimal hassle and alignment. There is very little chance of line overlapping incorrectly with the braid knot as compared to the palomar knot in my opinion, but both knots are equally as strong if done correctly.
Fluorocarbon is pretty tough for novice anglers to use on spinning reels. It does work very well on bait casting gear with no noticeable problems.

MONO LINES:

sorry, i would right about them but i ran out of space when i started, sorry. but fluorocarbon is very abrasion resistant and as less stretch. Although it dose have less no strength than mo

What are good brands for fluorocarbon line?



P-Line Fluorocarbon is the best in my opinion, with Seaugar InVizX FlouroCarbon a close second.
These lines are not cheap & Gamma Fluorocarbon is also real good.
I did try Berkley Trilene 100% Fluorocarbon and took it off at the end of the trip.
Expect to pay any where around $20 or more for a filler spool of any Fluorobarbon Line...anything with a oil by product is high.

Oh I do use P-Line and Seaugar as my main lines depends on which one I can get cheaper...LOL

What is the best fluorocarbon line out there?

In 20lb test.


Gamma Edge. It is super strong and has a very thin diameter that makes alot longer and smother casts. Also it doesn't fray or get weak as the other fluro carbons out there on the market do. Its the strongest fluro I ever used. It also last alot longer than your traditional fluro carbons. The only downfall is that it isnt very cheap.

Is there a Fluorocarbon fishing line,that transitions to silver, out of water?



i'm assuming that you want a vanishing flouro for its visibility out of water (?) i would go with berkley's vanish line of flouro. they have regular line that, well, vanishes when under water but can be well seen above water. they also have the vanish "gold" series that does the same thing only the line is a gold color but again, it disappears completely under all types of water. i personally prefer those two products as well as many pros on bass circuits. Berkley has in my opinion the best flouro out there.

Does fishing line effect on how many bite you get?

If i rig one rod with cheap line and one with expensive line. Which one would get the most bite and why? Now im not talking about monofilament or fluorocarbon line. Another thing i heard that fish would only bite if the line looks invisible is that true?


Honestly, it depends on the fish. I've seen kids catch sunfish on $1, 30 lb. test white line, and I've also seen myself catching 5 trout vs. the guy next to me getting one, fishing similar lures, but mine being tied to a good quality fluoro line (you can't take the line type out of the equation, because it DOES make a difference). As far as visibility vs. bites, its not really a matter of whether or not the fish can see it as much as it is if the fish really CARES. A hungry bass would hit a hook and worm tied to garden twine, while a native stream trout might get spooked by a near-invisible 2# test fluoro leader, its just the fish.

Like several have said, line quality comes into play in more areas than simply bites. With a good limp, low-memory line, you'll see fewer birdnests, longer and smoother casts, and less break-offs due to abrasion. Also, low-memory reduces looping, which means alot in terms of hook sets.

Still, you can get a good line for a reasonable price. Steer clear of anything super cheap, and look to spend at least $5-6 for a 300 yd. spool. If the extra few dollars are a deal breaker, you're probably not really serious about it in the fist place! :-P If you're worried about spooking the fish, look for a line in low-vis color like brown or dark green.


Captain's Corner: Drift the shallow grass flats for trout ... - Tampabay.com

What's hot: Drifting the shallow grass flats in lower Pinellas is on fire right now. Speckled trout, Spanish mackerel and bonnethead sharks are there for the taking. The key is proper timing, technique and bait.

Timing: Being at the right place is half the battle. When the tide moves up on the flats, so does the bait and the predators that follow the bait. If a windy, cloudy day just happens to coincide with the rising tide, so much the better.

Technique: Drifting allows more water coverage, which allows more opportunities for strikes. Cast downwind and slowly retrieve the line as the drift continues. Collect the line slowly so hook setting can be accomplished with a taut line. The rig to use is a No. 1 long shank hook tied to a 2-foot section of 25-pound fluorocarbon leader. Attach a weighted float at the junction of the main line and leader.

Bait: Scaled sardines or whitebait is the bait of choice. The easiest way to find these is to look for pelicans diving. Position upwind and drift over the area.

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